White horses crossing a Camargue lagoon at dawn
The South of France  /  Regions

Camargue

White horses, black bulls and pink flamingos — the delta where France runs out of land and keeps going.
The Region · La région

Where the Rhône empties into the Mediterranean, a delta of salt and rice, of horsemen and herons, and a horizon you can see whole.

A flock of flamingos on a salt lagoon The Grand Report · Bouches-du-Rhône
The Grand Report · Bouches-du-Rhône

In the saddle with the gardians of the delta

White horses, black bulls and a thousand square kilometres of marsh. A morning with the herdsmen who keep the Camargue the way it has always been.

Words — Léa Fontaine
Read the report — lire le reportage

The latest from the Camargue

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Flamingos wading in a shallow lagoon
Nature

The flamingos of the Pont de Gau

A reserve where the pink flamingo nests in thousands — best at dawn, when the water is still mirror.

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
A fortified town on the salt flats
Villages

The ramparts of Aigues-Mortes

Saint Louis’s crusader port, a perfect square of walls rising straight out of the salt marshes.

Aigues-Mortes · Gard
White horses grazing in a marsh
Traditions

The Camargue horse

Born brown, turned white — the small, ancient breed the gardians still ride to work the bulls.

The delta · Bouches-du-Rhône
A pilgrimage church by the sea
Traditions

The gypsy pilgrimage

Every May, the Roma of Europe carry Sara la Noire to the sea — the most moving festival in the South.

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Pink salt pans under a wide sky
Walks

The salt of Salin-de-Giraud

Mountains of fleur de sel and lagoons that turn rose — a landscape that looks painted by hand.

Salin-de-Giraud · Arles
A long beach with no buildings
Sea

The wild beach of Beauduc

Kilometres of empty sand at the end of a dirt road — the South before the South was discovered.

Beauduc · Camargue
The Address Book · Le carnet d’adresses

The Camargue, kept

Stay
Mas de Peint
Le Sambuc · a working manade
Table
La Chassagnette
Arles · the kitchen garden
Nature
Parc ornithologique du Pont de Gau
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Coffee
Le marché d’Arles
Arles · Saturday
Shop
La Maison du Riz
Camargue · rice & salt
Walk
Digue à la mer
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer