A laden market table in the South of France
The South of France  /  Sections

The Table

From the morning market to the long lunch — how the South of France eats, drinks and lingers.
The Section · La rubrique

Olive oil and rosé, bouillabaisse and black truffle — the South laid out plate by plate, from the fishing quay to the tasting menu.

A southern French market under morning light The Grand Report · Across the South
The Grand Report · Across the South

The morning market, region by region

Aix, Sète, Nice, Arles. Six markets, one rule — arrive early, follow the queue of locals, and never buy a tomato that isn’t in season.

Words — Élise Marchand
Read the report — lire le reportage

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A pot of fish soup on a stove
Bistros

A real bouillabaisse

Where to find the dish made to the 1980 charter — rockfish, two services, and rouille on toast.

Marseille · Bouches-du-Rhône
A glass of pale rosé in the sun
Wine

The rosé of Bandol & Provence

Pale, mineral and built to age — the serious side of a wine the world drinks too fast.

Var & Bouches-du-Rhône
Bottles of green olive oil
Olive Oil

The new olive oil

A protected appellation and a flavour of fresh-cut grass — the moulins to visit at first pressing.

Vallée des Baux · Provence
A truffle on a wooden board
Markets

The black truffle of the Tricastin

Europe’s largest tuber market, held every Saturday from November — bring cash and a cool head.

Richerenches · Vaucluse
A chef plating in a bright kitchen
Chefs

The garden kitchens of Arles

A generation cooking within metres of where they grow — the most quietly radical tables in the South.

Arles · Camargue
Almond sweets on a market stall
Sweet

The thirteen desserts

Nougat, calissons, dried figs and fougasse — the old Provençal table that ends every winter feast.

Provence · at Christmas
The Address Book · Le carnet d’adresses

The South, tasted

Table
Chez Fonfon
Marseille · the Vallon des Auffes
Wine
Domaine Tempier
Bandol · Le Plan-du-Castellet
Market
Les Halles de Sète
Sète · Hérault
Oil
Moulin Castelas
Les Baux-de-Provence
Sweet
Maison Brémond 1830
Aix-en-Provence
Truffle
La Beaugravière
Mondragon · Vaucluse