Olive oil and rosé, bouillabaisse and black truffle — the South laid out plate by plate, from the fishing quay to the tasting menu.
Aix, Sète, Nice, Arles. Six markets, one rule — arrive early, follow the queue of locals, and never buy a tomato that isn’t in season.
Where to find the dish made to the 1980 charter — rockfish, two services, and rouille on toast.
Pale, mineral and built to age — the serious side of a wine the world drinks too fast.
A protected appellation and a flavour of fresh-cut grass — the moulins to visit at first pressing.
Europe’s largest tuber market, held every Saturday from November — bring cash and a cool head.
A generation cooking within metres of where they grow — the most quietly radical tables in the South.
Nougat, calissons, dried figs and fougasse — the old Provençal table that ends every winter feast.