A village of warm stone among cypress and plane trees
Photograph — Lourmarin, Vaucluse
The Grand Report · Vaucluse

Lourmarin, Gateway to the Luberon

A village of fountains and plane trees at the southern foot of the Luberon, with the first Renaissance château in Provence and the grave of Albert Camus. Lourmarin, in the Vaucluse.

By The EditorsLourmarin, Vaucluse
Spring 20268 min read

Lourmarin lies at the southern foot of the Luberon, where the gorge of the Combe opens onto the plain — a village of fountains, plane trees and golden stone that is one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France, and one of the most loved corners of Provence. Writers settled here, and one of the century’s great ones never left.

I. The village and its market

The streets coil up to a bell tower and a church, past mossy fountains, small squares and the cafés that have made Lourmarin a byword for the good Provençal life. The Friday market is one of the best in the Luberon, spilling along the streets with olives, cheeses, fabrics and the produce of the plain.

“The good Provençal life, distilled into one village of fountains and shade.”

From the notebook
A mossy fountain in a shaded Provençal village square
A square in Lourmarin — fountains, plane trees and the slow southern hours.

II. The Renaissance château

On a rise at the edge of the village stands the Château de Lourmarin, begun in the fifteenth century and completed as the first Renaissance château in Provence — a courtyard, a great spiral staircase, and rooms now used for concerts and residencies for artists. It looks across the vines to the wall of the Luberon behind.

A Renaissance château among vineyards below a hill range
The Château de Lourmarin — the first Renaissance château in Provence.

III. Camus, and the Luberon beyond

The writer Albert Camus bought a house in Lourmarin with his Nobel money and is buried in the village cemetery, simply, under his name. From here the Combe de Lourmarin cuts north through the hills to the perched villages of the central Luberon — Bonnieux, Ménerbes, Roussillon — and the whole of the range opens out.

The Practical Carnet · Carnet pratique

Plan the visit

Getting there
About 45 min from Aix-en-Provence or Avignon by car; the village is best explored on foot.
When to go
Friday for the market; spring and autumn for the village without the high-summer crowds.
Where to stay
Le Moulin de Lourmarin, an old oil mill turned hotel in the heart of the village.
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About the Author · L’auteur

Élise Marchand

Travel Editor — based in Marseille

Élise has been driving the back roads of the Midi for the journal since its first issue. She pays for her own rooms and her own lunches — and only writes about the places she would return to.

More by Élise Marchand — voir ses articles