A bald white limestone mountain rising above green hills
Photograph — Mont Ventoux, Vaucluse
The Grand Report · Vaucluse

Mont Ventoux, the Giant of Provence

A bare white summit that looks snow-capped in August, a legend of the Tour de France, and lavender plateaus at its feet. Mont Ventoux, in the Vaucluse.

By The EditorsMont Ventoux, Vaucluse
Spring 20268 min read

You see Mont Ventoux from half of Provence — a single pale mountain standing apart from any range, its summit a desert of white limestone scree so bright it looks snow-covered in high summer. At 1,909 metres it is the giant of the region, and its name says the rest: the ventoux, the windy one.

I. The bald white summit

The forest climbs the lower slopes and then simply stops, and the last kilometres to the top are bare broken stone, swept by a wind that has been clocked above three hundred kilometres an hour. From the observatory tower at the summit the view runs to the Alps, the Rhône and, on the clearest days, a far line of the sea.

“A mountain that wears no snow and looks white all summer — the wind keeps it bare.”

From the notebook
A bare scree slope rising to a summit tower
The last kilometres — white scree and the summit tower, swept by wind.

II. The mountain of the Tour

The Tour de France made the Ventoux a place of legend and once of tragedy — the English rider Tom Simpson died near the top in 1967, and his memorial still draws cyclists who leave a bottle or a cap as they pass. Three roads climb it, from Bédoin, Malaucène and Sault; riders come from all over the world to take on at least one.

A road winding up a bare mountain under a wide sky
The climb from Bédoin — forest, then the white desert of the summit.

III. Lavender at its feet

You do not have to climb it. The eastern approach through Sault crosses a high plateau that turns blue with lavender in July, the mountain always on the horizon; below to the west lie the vineyards of the Côtes du Ventoux and the perched villages of the Dentelles de Montmirail. The giant gives the whole country its backdrop.

The Practical Carnet · Carnet pratique

Plan the climb

Getting there
Best by car from Avignon or Orange, about an hour; Bédoin and Sault are the usual bases.
When to go
June to September; the summit road closes with snow in winter, and the wind can shut it any month.
Where to stay
Crillon le Brave, a perched village turned hotel, with the giant filling the view.
E
About the Author · L’auteur

Élise Marchand

Travel Editor — based in Marseille

Élise has been driving the back roads of the Midi for the journal since its first issue. She pays for her own rooms and her own lunches — and only writes about the places she would return to.

More by Élise Marchand — voir ses articles